Iftar in Sultanahmet

A few people from our group decided to join our Turkish Professor, Sabri, for a day of Ramadan fasting on Wednesday. We couldn't eat or drink from 340am-840pm. We met in the University's food court around 130 in the morning to have one last meal before the fast. Luckily, we didn't have class on Wednesday and were able to sleep in until about 1130. We did some school work in our dorms for most of the day, trying our best to conserve energy and not work up too much of a thirst or an appetite. We made our way from campus into Sultanahmet, the historical center of Istanbul on the European side, at around 630. After a quick walk through the Grand Bazaar and the Ramadan Market (maybe a slow, energy conserving stroll would be more accurate), we found an empty spot on the grass in the square between Ayasofya and the Blue Mosque. Thousands of people gather here every night of Ramadan to break their fast with a meal they call Iftar.

                                                       (Ayasofya in the background)

Many get here a few hours before Iftar, spread out their blankets, and try to nap for the last leg of the fast. Some people bring modest meals to eat, some bring Turkish camp stoves so they can cook (or at least reheat) a feast for family and friends, and some buy Iftar meals sold by the vendors stationed around the square. Our group brought water (Lots of it!), and Sabri brought us dried dates and other fruits, which is the traditional way to break your fast. 

As 840 gets nearer, the noise in the square slowly dies down in anticipation of the call to prayer. As soon as the call begins at 840 (actually, 20 seconds after 840 because the man in charge of the call to prayer breaks his fast with water before starting the call) the lights hung between two of the Blue Mosque's minarets pop on and thousands of people raise their glasses or bottles in unison and drink their fill of water. Most people then gradually reintroduce food to their stomachs by eating a few pieces of dried fruit before beginning their meal, although there are those who jumped right into the main meal. We savored our water and nibbled on dried fruits and watched the scene unfold around us. About 20 minutes after the call to prayer, we left for a restaurant just around the corner that had a special Iftar menu (Salad, Lentil Soup, Bread, Chicken Kebab, Baklava, and all the water you can drink!). We ate on the balcony which had a great view of Ayasofya, the Blue Mosque, and the Bosphorus.

(We were too busy eating to remember to take pictures of the view, but I did take a picture of the lights on the Blue Mosque being turned on just before the call began.)

Not drinking water is definitely the hardest part of the fast. I can't imagine how people are able to wake up early in the morning and go about their daily routine without drinking water everyday for a month! All in all, it was a challenging but fulfilling experience that helped us understand Turkish culture even better. Our time here has flown by. I'm going to miss Turkey when I leave next week.